Ice climbing grades Mixed, Water Ice and Aid grades. Apr 21, 2019 · The Most Common System – Water Ice and Alpine Ice Grades . unstable ice, little protection, and a risk of death). Easy angled ice that has no particularly hard sections. – Short rock or ice sections up to Grade III. 5 At this grade the ice may be complex, forming large ‘cauliflowers’ or ‘scales’, and care may be required when climbing and placing ice screws. M1-M3 are generally easy; they involve some ice climbing and may have short, simple rock climbing elements. Ice climbing grades are based on a system that takes into account several factors, including the steepness and quality of the ice, the amount of protection you can place, and how technical the movements are. Ice climbing is exactly what it sounds like. May have some run-outs Aug 30, 2021 · Water Ice Climbing grades — WI3+, WI6, etc. Mixed climbing is climbing both rock & ice with ice tools & crampons using a variety of tactics & protection. WI 3 – Generally between 70 and 80 degrees, perhaps with a few small vertical steps. → UIAA Technical Meeting – Generic Notes – for whole 2025 season. They will have a prefix that refers to the type of ice, such as WI for water ice or AI for alpine ice. You may be forgiven for having a quiet prayer as your ice screws go through the ice into the pockets of air behind the scales. Jan 28, 2022 · Australian Climbing Grades. → UIAA Safeguarding Policy Jan 29, 2010 · The ice climbing grades in the Ouray Ice Park don't bear much resemblance to anything outside of the ice park. There are two main types of ice climbing: Alpine ice is in mountainous environments and is usually part of an attempt to summit a mountain. WI 1 – Easy, low-angled ice. The slope angle is 60-degrees or less, and is fairly straightforward, solid ice. Sep 28, 2021 · In rock climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, climbing grades are meant to concisely describe the difficulty and danger of climbing any single route. Due to how widely the character of ice can vary from year to year, water ice grades should be regarded as approximate. I - The easiest climbs. Aimed at those who already have basic winter skills (basic crampon & ice axe) and want to climb graded snow and ice routes II to III or to join one of our overseas expedition or courses graded 3 or 4 such as Annapurna IV, Sudarshan, Ismoil Somoni, Denali, Khan Tengri, Broad Peak, Everest. M5: Some sustained vertical dry tooling. Straightforward snow slopes up to 50 degrees, or simple scrambles on snowed up rock. What Are Ice Climbing Ratings? Ice climbing ratings are a system of classifications used to describe the difficulty and technical requirements of an ice climb. M4: Slabby to vertical with some technical dry tooling. Introductory ice climbs will be around WI2, while advanced ice climbers will tackle WI5 and above. The Grade System Ice climbs are measured by a “WI” or “Water Ice” grade. With the passage of each climbing team “fat” ice generally gets easier. Water Ice and Alpine Ice Grades: Ice climbing ratings are highly variable by region and are still evolving. Grade V - Sustained ice to 80º or mixed climbs with linked hard moves. Sep 5, 2021 · Simply put, a climbing grade describes the difficulty of the terrain on the route. – Rock sections up to Grade II and ice sections up to Grade II. From there, the grades progress up to WI7 (confirmed, WI8 under discussion), with more dramatic slope Grade III: Most of a day for the technical portion. It’s going up ice formations. Water ice grades describe the difficulty of climbing performed entirely on ice. Grade IV and above get an additional grade for pitches within the climb. Introduction to snow and ice climbing. WI7: This grade is classified as difficult, demanding advanced ice climbing skills and physical strength. Bouldering Grades Grade V: Sustained ice to 80º or mixed climbs with linked hard moves. 2. Grade III Gullies containing ice or mixed pitches up to 75 degrees, normally with one substantial pitch or several lesser ones. 1. The pick holes literally get pounded into the ice, and due to the increasing ice climbing traffic there are fewer and fewer routes that don’t have left-over pick holes. Grade VII: Multi-pitch routes with long sections of vertical or thin ice, or mixed routes with lots of highly technical climbing. Jun 23, 2024 · When it comes to ice climbing, understanding the different grade systems is crucial for climbers to accurately assess the difficulty of a route. Grade VI: Two or more days of hard technical climbing. The WI acronym implies seasonal ice; AI is often substituted for year-around Alpine Ice and may be easier than a WI grade with the same number. M1-3: Easy. However, for the most part, the difficulties can be understood on a fairly linear scale to that of rock climbing, with M1 being equivalent to a 5. Aid climbing grades take time to stabilize as successive repeats of aid climbing routes can materially reduce the grade. WI 1 Low angle ice requiring crampons rather than ice tools WI 2 Ice about 60-70 degree ice with a few short steeper steps. But what goes into climbing grades, and why do they involve so many letters and numbers? Climbing is rife with technical jargon, and trying to decode the abbreviations can seem daunting. In ice climbing, the most widely used grading system is the WI ("water ice") system (e. Here is a free conversion chart. WI7 is very rare and usually attributed to overhanging ice with serious risk issues (i. Also, if you would like to see Trip Reports for climbs of a certain grade, such as WI3, or for a certain area, like the Icefields Parkway and David Thompson, scroll down to the bottom of the Trip Reports. 14 climbing; gymnastic ability, physical stamina, and a strong mind are all prerequisites; a handful of climbers in the world are capable of climbing this grade. Mixed Grades: Indicated as M1–M12, for routes combining ice and rock climbing techniques. The overall grade, comparable to the adjectival rock grade is given in a roman numeral, currently from I to X. Dec 2, 2010 · WI 1 – Not really a practical grade, think walking on low angled ice in a stream bed or something of that nature. Mixed grades (M) are used when dry tooling – climbing rock (and usually also ice) with crampons and ice tools. → UIAA Ice Climbing Appeals Form. For example a grade V climb might look like V 4, V 5 V 6 or even V 7. Grade VI: Vertical ice and highly technical mixed routes. Ice climbing grades are another story. Canadian Winter Commitment Grade There are grade systems for bouldering, grade systems for sport climbing, grade systems for aid climbing and so on but even grade systems for the same style don’t always translate well between each other. Usually, it refers to features like icefalls, frozen waterfalls, and cliffs or rocks covered in ice. Low angle; usually no tools. Grade IV: A full day of technical climbing, generally at least 5. Testpiece examples are given. Good terrain for beginners to learn on. This has been brought about by the fact that previously unclimbed bands of rock are being overcome with the use of ice-axe and crampons, thereby linking various sections of ice. The Complete Guide to Mixed Climbing Grades explains everything you need to know to gauge the difficulty of mixed climbs & relates them to familiar YDS rock climbing grades. 1 Ascent possible only with crampons 2 Quality ice with one somewhat longer section at 60° incline WI2 to WI4: These grades represent easy ice climbs suitable for beginners and those with some experience. Ice climbing technique: kicking and standing on front points Apr 27, 2025 · Ice climbing grades increase numerically and can have a plus or minus sign. Mar 3, 2006 · Technical Grade – Arabic Numerals This grade refers to the technical difficulties of the pitch and takes into account the angle of the ice-fall, whether the climbing is sustained or not, the nature of the fall’s formation, and the nature of its protection. The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. Though not yet set in stone, M grades (“M” given to define a mixed route) are often compared or defined by the difficulty of a similar rock route using the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). French System: Oct 20, 2021 · As a result, a separate system has been developed. What determines the Grade of an Ice Climb? WI 1: Low angle ice; no tools required. WI refers to water ice, and AI stands for alpine ice. Require difficult mixed climbing techniques. Ice climbing takes place on bodies of frozen water, such as glaciers and waterfalls, and as such, a particular route can change from season to season, day to day, and even disappear from one day to the next! Ice climbing grades peak at WI6 to WI7 as ice tends to hang vertically at its most severe. WI5 to WI6: Considered moderate ice climbs, these routes require solid climbing techniques and experience on ice. Both ice climbing and alpine climbing use this system. WI 2 – Low angle ice or very short pitches up to 80 degrees. Mixed Climbing Grades, or M Grades, are used to rate the technical difficulty of climbing terrain that includes steep rock and ice using ice tools and crampons. Winter wise: how to stay warm, dressing for ice climbing, staying warm while you belay. WI 3 – Sustained pitches up to 80-degree ice with good resting places. These grades help climbers choose routes that match their skills and goals, ensuring a safe and enjoyable experience. Walking up ice where crampons are necessary. Mixed climbing routes can cover a broad range of types. WI 1 – Flat – like a lake… and no routes are graded WI 1. 7. South African rock climbing grades are very similar to Australian, with the exception that the upper end of the scale is currently at 41. g. . Mixed Climbing Grades (M) Mixed Climbing Grades (M) include both ice and rock climbing elements. need to pass a rock overhang or rock roof to get to the frozen ice part); these routes have both a full mixed climbing grade (M-grade) and a full ice climbing The idea of climbing grades or snow grades is not too difficult; nonetheless, the grades change based on the local climbing location or the international standard, regardless of whether you are accustomed to bouldering, sport climbing, alpine ice routes, alpine ice sections, or classic climbing, different forms of ice climbing, glacier travel Jan 27, 2025 · What is Ice Climbing. • WI5 / AI5 – This is where ice climbing gets pumpy. This is because the overall objective dangers can vary dramatically on alpine routes with similar technical rock and ice climbing grades. Ice Grades: WI 1-7. Climbing grades defined - Mixed Grades, Ice Grades, Aid ratings, Protection Ratings, Commitment ratings. Sustained 60° to 65° ice/mixed climbing or rock climbing around grade 13-15. Screenshot it, save it, share it, or download it so you’re never without easy access to this handy climbing grade conversion chart. Read more on Mixed Climbing. There are two variations on ice climbing grades, with both a “water ice” grade, which approximately describes the difficulty on season icefalls and an “alpine ice” grade, which more precisely describes climbing on permanent ice. Grade VII: Remote big walls climbed in alpine style. Feb 7, 2017 · Ice Grades. To learn more about the grading system, check out the American Alpine Club’s International Grade Comparison Chart . Oct 5, 2022 · Ice climbing grades, or ratings, are used to assess the difficulty level of a route. There are three main grading systems used in ice climbing: the WI (Water Ice) Scale, the AI (Alpine Ice) Scale, and the M (Mixed) Scale. Crux steps may involve WI4 ice, M4 mixed, or rock climbing around grade 17. Whilst each IFAS grade can imply certain grades of rock, ice, or mixed climbing difficulties, the UIAA warns against assuming an IFAS grade always aligns with specific rock and ice climbing grades. The average within them is the V 5 which could be seen as a benchmark grade V. The most commonly used ice climbing system in the United States grades climbs using numbers 1 through 7, although it is very likely that other numbers will be added as the sport continues to be pushed. Apr 10, 2024 · → UIAA Ice Climbing Rules & Regulations (2025) → UIAA Ice Climbing Rules & Regulations – Specific Changes 2025. 15d). Grade 3A – A climb with an elevation of 2,500 to 6,500 meters (8,000 to 21,000 feet). WI 2 – Ice up to 60 degrees in steepness. Grade VI and above routes have exceptional Mixed climbing is a rather new grading system used to define the difficulty of climbing rock, and possibly some ice, using ice tools and crampons. Apr 29, 2024 · Keep reading below the conversion chart for an in-depth explanation of climbing grades as well as alpine, water-ice, boulder, and commitment ratings. pitch it out, stomp joyously up Grade VII: Multi-pitch routes with long sections of vertical or thin ice, or mixed routes with lots of highly technical climbing. Every thing you need to know on climbing grades. These ratings provide climbers with an understanding of what to expect in terms of physical exertion, technical challenges, and mental fortitude required. Waterfall Ice Grading. e. M4-M6 are moderate difficulty, with more challenging rock sections and greater ice climbing requirements. Grade V: Typically requires an overnight on the route. M10 – Similar to 5. Water Ice (WI) grades are usually applied to shorter pure ice routes, and may Apr 12, 2016 · Johnston Canyon offers many different ice lines ranging from low angle WI2 excellent for beginners, all the way to WI6 free hanging pillars that will test even the seasoned veteran. Mixed Grade: These routes require considerable dry tooling (modern ice tools used on bare rock) and are climbed in crampons; actual ice is optional but some ice is usually involved. To learn more about ice climbing and what the grades mean, scroll down below the Top Rope Areas section. Waterfall ice grades: WI2 - WI6 . VI: Long sections of vertical ice with difficult mixed-climbing moves required. Learn about frozen waterfalls, how strong is ice, how does vertical ice form. The following descriptions approximate the average systems. 8 Sustained WI5 to WI5+ ice, M6 mixed, or grade 22-23 rock, and/or may have crux sections of M7 mixed or grade 25-26 rock. Grade VI - Vertical ice and highly technical mixed routes. Grades range from M1 to M16, Our Complete Guide to Mixed Climbing for Details on grades and example videos of various Mixed Climbing Grades. The reason being that the width of grades on a specific scale are not comparable or that grades are not linear across the whole scale. Requires skills for placing protection. A WI1 is the easiest type of ice climbing where technically no tools are required. This discussion focuses on the waterfall ice rating system as used in the Canadian Rockies. Jan 13, 2025 · On grade V mixed terrain you often get puzzling moves with decent feet to get your weight off your axes, and plenty of gear, while grade V ice provides the opposite – similar moves and movement with a lot more weight on your arms and the ice screws feeling a long way below you. – Sections of snow and ice or mixed conditions. May 31, 2020 · Ice climbing ratings increase numerically and with a ‘+’ or ‘-‘, but with a prefix describing the type of ice. Ratings are based on thin or bad ice, the degree, the amount of rests, the length of the pitch, and more. Canadian Winter Commitment Grade: Feb 2, 2021 · Grade IV - Steep ice with short vertical steps or long pitches up to 70º, or mixed routes requiring advanced techniques. VII: Multiple pitches of technical WI6 ice climbing on dubious protection; The cruxes are graded on a system from 4-9: 4: Easy rock or ice; 5. Always check avalanche conditions in the Rockies here before heading out and follow local ice and mixed conditions on the Facebook page Rockies Ice and Mixed Conditions here. The M-scale ranges from M1 to M12. The second part of the international rating system for ice climbing assigns difficulty to the actual climbing, this part has nine levels from grade 1 to grade 9. Jan 4, 2025 · The following five routes get the grade of WI6+, which means they’re meant for seasoned ice climbers during periods of good conditions. Because of how new the sport is, the advancement of technology, and the transferability of ice climbing skills, there are some grey areas in terms of mixed climbing grades that need to be addressed. III+ Increasingly long sections of steep climbing and Dec 15, 2023 · The ice climbing grades are: WI-1: No tools required to climb WI-2: Good protection, tools required in some spots WI-3: Sustained climbing with good rests and protection WI-4: Continuous steep or vertical ice WI-5: Long, vertical, strenuous ice WI-6: Highly technical, long, and vertical, with no rests WI-7: Long, techn The alpine grade is mainly determined by the maximum technical difficulty on the route that cannot be avoided (without using aid climbing techniques), either on rock, snow, ice, or mixed terrain. The grades used here reflect the technical difficulty of a climb. Note that ice grading, even more so than other climbing media, tends to be subjective and often does not reflect the difficulty of a route at any given time. II - Steeper sections with ice but still normally less than vertical. So, any ice grade is an approximation and has a large degree of subjectivity. These grades help other climbers judge whether it is suitable for their level. Climbs are difficult, sustained, and/or serious. If you have the requisite mountain experience, you will get there with a general idea of what to expect, and then figure out what you need to do (i. Water Ice, Alpine Ice, and Cana­di­an Ice Tech­ni­cal Grades: Ice climb­ing rat­ings are high­ly vari­able by region and are still evolv­ing. Grade VIII and above: The hardest routes in Scotland. WI6) and Ice Climbing Grades. Jan 4, 2025 · WI (Water Ice): Grades range from WI1 (low-angle ice) to WI8 (vertical or overhanging, highly technical). a large frozen icicle, frozen alpine couloirs, or frozen water cascade) and a dry-tooling route (i. The Australian climbing grade scale for technical scrambling and rock routes, another open-ended rating system, runs from 1 (~YDS 3) to 39 (5. WI 4 – Sustained pitches of vertical or off-vertical ice. 5/WI2 climbing Jun 1, 2015 · Alpine ice and other winter routes can range from a nice hike, to a technical ice pitch, to unprotected mixed climbing to bowling alley depending on conditions. May have crux sections of WI4+ ice, M5 mixed, or grade 20 rock. Some mixed climbing routes are combinations of an ice climbing route (i. ICE CLIMBING. However, by its very nature climbing is subjective – someone else can’t climb the wall for you – so there will always be people who find a UIAA V+ to be more like a V or an IFAS PD+ Due to the complexity of routes in alpine climbing, the "overall" grade denotes the general level of seriousness of the route to which is added additional specific grade(s) for any rock climbing (usually the French, American, or UIAA grades for free climbing, and the A-grade for aid climbing), ice climbing (the WI-grade), and mixed climbing . WI 3: Sustained 70 degree with possible long bulges of 80-90 degrees; reasonable rests and good stances for placing screws. I think Colorado ice climbs suffer from popularity and so don't much get a chance to heal. Sustained WI3+ ice, M3-4 mixed climbing, or grade 16-18 rock. The grades only reflect a range of difficulty not the actual difficulty as it pertains to other routes in other areas. Ice climbing ratings are highly variable by region and are still evolving. M11 -M? – The system is open ended. The maximum ‘obligatory’ grade will determine the minimal alpine grade given to a route as it determines the minimum level required to overcome V: Sustained hard climbing on near-vertical rock or ice. The fol­low­ing descrip­tions approx­i­mate the aver­age sys­tems, at least as used by North Amer­i­cans. Ice hazards, mitigating risk, avoiding falling ice, where is it safe to stand. WI 2: Consistent 60 degree ice with possible bulges; good protection. Over the last couple of years there has been a dramatic rise in ice-climbing standards; ice falls are being freed and the scale is shifting upwards rapidly. WI 3 Sustained 70-80 degree ice with short steep sections Dec 9, 2024 · The criteria for ice climbing grades in between show the variability of snow and ice—knowledge that comes as you get more experience and practice in the field. Grade 2B – A climb with an elevation of 2,000 to 6,000 meters (6,500 to 20,000 feet). oxkpxl bfuzo yggsxak icpycm uedjw ththuw yntmsza shnlqf scidu ciw